• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

89 Starliner Factory Refirb

Sam12_zpshvuhycax.jpg[/URL]

Actually, you are right. There is an opening in front of the fuel tank. Personally I would fiberglass that shut, make sure there are no through-floor perforations and the area will be water tight. I have noticed that one of the worst areas in Checkmate floors is around the front seat bases. The water goes in the screw holes and starts rotting the floor.

I solved the problem with the screws breaking thru the bottom of the floor by bonding 1" thick disks to the floor. No screw penetration into the flooring. Should the disks suffer for any reason, just cut and sand them off and apply new disks. I did the same for the battery box and oil tank. I did glass the bottom side of the floor to keep moisture from penetrating. I know the factory would not do that unless you are willing to pay the extra for it. I think it would be a worthwhile investment if you were to keep the boat for another 10 to 15 years.
 
There are several ways to deal with the seat bases. I guess by disks you mean have them fiberglass another wood disk shaped base on top and screw into that. I wouldn't think there would be much expense with that. On my Starliner I glassed the blocks underneath the floor so the screws could not perforate through the floor. This gave a lot of extra material to screw into and the seat bases were as solid as a rock. Lots of ways to skin that cat.
 
I epoxied my disks to the top of the floor. This way I could remove them if necessary. I did that back in 2009 and they are in the same shape as when I first installed them. Never even glassed them in. I did apply a layer of 1.5 oz mat to the top of the floor before installing the disks.
 
Sounds like what I did with my exciter. I did glass them (the disks) to the floor. I made mine with two pieces of 3/4" or 1/2" plywood (can't remember now) epoxied together. Before I installed them, I templated and drilled out for the screw holes in the seat bases and epoxied SS nuts and washers in from the bottom. Once I glassed them in, I bolted the seat bases down. They were solid as a rock and nice because the raised area kept all water on the floor away from the penetrations.

114.jpg
 
Update!!

Well...like I said earlier, I've been buried at work. The good side of that is the results have been financially beneficial. The bad news (or good depending on how you want to look at) it is that I'm allowing the scope to creep. Anyway, here's the latest from Dean:

The floor was glassed on the bottom :thumb:

The Bilge was painted black, but they're switching to white :thumb:

The gel can't be saved. But the prices are for paint and clear is not good. So, I'm looking at a re-gelling the boat from the chine up. New blue and new white. BUT, that price is not cheap...we'll see what the hard quote comes back at...

The speaker/cupholders that are in the 2400 pulsares will fit in the Starliner, so they're going in. It will change the panel configuration inthe rear area, but...it'll be worth it or the clean install and unique look.

The dash needs to be repaired and redone to correctly configure the gauges, dash switches, key switch, fuses etc,etc.

We'll see where the price shakes out...
 
It's only money.


I'm very envious of you. I would love to have a factory redone full metal flake I/O Entertainer or find a perfect original one.
 
Well...like I said earlier, I've been buried at work. The good side of that is the results have been financially beneficial. The bad news (or good depending on how you want to look at) it is that I'm allowing the scope to creep. Anyway, here's the latest from Dean:

The floor was glassed on the bottom :thumb:

The Bilge was painted black, but they're switching to white :thumb:

The gel can't be saved. But the prices are for paint and clear is not good. So, I'm looking at a re-gelling the boat from the chine up. New blue and new white. BUT, that price is not cheap...we'll see what the hard quote comes back at...

The speaker/cupholders that are in the 2400 pulsares will fit in the Starliner, so they're going in. It will change the panel configuration inthe rear area, but...it'll be worth it or the clean install and unique look.

The dash needs to be repaired and redone to correctly configure the gauges, dash switches, key switch, fuses etc,etc.

We'll see where the price shakes out...




Oh man, since you have the chance now, FLAKE THE HELL OUT OF THAT THING!!!! Man that would be killer!!!

And as always, I can't wait to see this thing done!!!
 
Great news that they glassed the underside of floor. Bad news that the gel is shot, but at least the whole boat will look brand spanking new.
 
The more I think about the flake, the more I kinda want to flake it out. I could have them yank the panels off the motor and flake them too...hmmm...what to do. I'd have to gel the bottom though too. Probably go white on the bottom and flake it out...with either red, black, and silver...or maybe red white and blue...or...oh man...gotta stop.

Damn it, boys. Still thinking original, though. Old school.
 
A couple of shots of a Starliner I had several years ago. It had the small or micro flake in the blue and red and also had a silver strip with the large flake. This was an all original 1988. Anyway just a thought.

Chuck

1-IMG_0176_zpsws6ef3tv.jpg;

ck%20-007_zpstuia51dq.jpg
 
Doesn't get much more old school than flake!! That' one of the biggest things I miss about my old Starflite, all the flake. If my convincor ever gets redone, you can be sure there will be some flake added!!!!
 
Yeah, I get flake is old school as well. I was thinking more along the lines of keeping it original/stock old school rather than bling it out and have a completely different boat than I started with.

I'll talk with Dean, but if I flake it I'll keep the same color scheme/graphics, but add silver flake to the whole thing.
 
Last edited:
Just talked to Dean...flaking it is a 3 step process rather than a prep and one shot process...3X's the amount of labor vs flat color. Flake is out.
 
It's a 3 step if you gelcoat but not if you paint. If you decide to paint a metallic paint can be used which will have lot finer flake but can deliver a nice deep look that glistens in the sun.
 
Back
Top