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100 MPH PULSARE?

No it`s not me.
But some one on this forum said to get rid of the outboard and put a bigblock in it.

So, I only know that this guy went over 100 mls with his combination.
(22 ft Stingray hull, small block and modified Alfha sterndrive)
I also know he is "less" famous on the other boards ( not only S&F), like you said.

I know his motor has over 600 hp, so you really need a strong assemble
to pass the 100 miles barrier!

He sold his Stingray hull to get more speed out of his motor by getting a Velocity hull (with the pad).


That someone that said chuck the outboard was me I was just busting balls. The thread here is trying to get a pulsare to 100 with 1 outboard. Your Stingray you posted is no threat to a Checkmate being that,their are numorus Checkmates allready that passed the 100 mark. Anybody that wants to stuff a 600 hp in a family run about can run 100 mph thats old news and you need sunday morning slick water to do it and so does your stingray.

And to tell you the truth I don't belive he has 600 hp out of a 350

Here is your Slingray's Daddy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocKlr43hUlE
 
This is a great thread and I have been thinking about it a little bit.
I think the ultimate most badass, in your face way to do this would be with a stock hull. (am I wrong?)
If one takes a 2100 and modifies it, it is no longer a "true Checkmate".
From what I have seen on this site the 100mph make can be done.
This is what I would try:
-lots of seat time
-beefed transom, 18" bracket + 4-6" hyd. j/p, 300xs, prop(?)
-lots more seat time
 
Blueprinting the hull; straightening, sharpening strakes and widening the pad would not make it any less of a Checkmate. Pretty standard stuff in the hunt for those last few MPH's.
TCAT's Pulsare has the 10" pad and consistently sees 5 MPH more than than the factory pad with a 225 Opti.
 
Hehehe, you silly outboard guys :brickwall: I'd start with something like my old 202 Persuader I/O and drop a blown 540ci tall block in and hope the alpha drive can hold up for just one hot pass :p ;)
 
300xs with labbed 32 pitch, a swift kick of go juice from a bottle bump the horsed up to about 390 with nitrous.

then pray it holds up.

wider pad, and bottom work .

i would imagine that would be pretty close.

i have 280 hp on a stv pro comp with 32 pitch at 7600 rpm. i think that that setup above would do it if you could handle it
 
Blueprinting the hull; straightening, sharpening strakes and widening the pad would not make it any less of a Checkmate. Pretty standard stuff in the hunt for those last few MPH's.
TCAT's Pulsare has the 10" pad and consistently sees 5 MPH more than than the factory pad with a 225 Opti.

How do you blueprint a hull ??? What is the process ..
 
How do you blueprint a hull ??? What is the process ..
Well, first understand that I have never done it, only read articles on it. From what I have read, the key is to get the bottom perfectly flat. Any hook near the stern needs to be filled. They cause the bow to ride heavy. Rockers needs to be sanded out. They cause porpoising. Strakes need to be straightened, squared off and sharpened, again with polyester or epoxy fller. Also on a Checkmate the trailing edge would need to be squared off since they are manufactured with a 45 degree angle. All those rounded edges slow the boat down. Finally, as mentioned the pad can be widened. Very fast hulls like Allisons have wide pads...10" or so.

On another note, it was also mentioned that the Starflite has a stepped hull. You can actually hear it aerating at higher speeds. I have become convinced that this pulls the bow down instead of allowing it to free up. In order to overcome this guys have been adding 14-16" of setback.(hard on the transom) This gets the step out of the water and the boat speeds up significantly. Again, you can hear and feel it free up. I think Checkmate realized that a true pad hull would be faster and so they morphed it into the Pulsare. The difference between these 2 hulls is not huge and the Starflite is just as good in the heavy chop. Still, I perfer the pad bottom.
 
Work on the bottom would be a must. Widen the pad to 10-12" Sharpen all lifting strakes and remove the lip if any. 300xs with a call to Simon, HP in the 350-370 range. Labbed prop and a bunch of seat time.
 
I think with a stock 300XS and a tweeked bottom it would be a step in the right direction.

I tend to agree...I think the only realy tweeking would be sharpening all the strakes and the transom...not widening the pad (although that would help). Setback would have to be significant, in excess of 12", a sportmaster case, a good bow lifting top end prop in the 29-30 pitch range, remove as much weight as possible..if it's not bolted down, take it out!
 
The stingray in the pic has been a huge debate on s&f seems a bit far fetched I think 80s would be bout it, but who knows.Id love to see a pulsare break a 100mph, not sure id want to be in it myself though. My allison in the 90s seems fast enuff. Although the lure of 100mph is certainly there for me as well.:thumb:Aaron
 
Do you guys think a stock 300X w/ a 30' pitch chopper, 18" of setback, blueprint the bottom and lose 300+ lbs would get you to the 100 mph range?

What does a bare 2100 weigh?
 
Do you guys think a stock 300X w/ a 30' pitch chopper, 18" of setback, blueprint the bottom and lose 300+ lbs would get you to the 100 mph range?

What does a bare 2100 weigh?

Shannon, the bare long deck weight is listed at 1375 lbs. With all the rigging, motor, gas, batteries, etc. the boat probably tops 2300-2500 lbs easily. As I stated earlier in this thread; I think the 300X, Sportmaster lower, setback probably in the 12"-15" range, sharpened bottom edges, 30" Pitch DAH Chopper or labbed Trophy Plus, remove everything that's not bolted down (just the bow pads and ski locker doors alone weigh a good chunk), and I bet the Pulsare would reach the century mark. We could always bolt one of your 300's to my Pulsare and find out!:bigthumb:
 
I have been following this thread and doing alot of thinking. The subject of making the pad wider seems to keep popping up. This is just my opinion, but I think a wider pad at that kind of speed will slow the boat down. True, someone is running one with a wider pad and running a bit faster than other guys with 225's, but at that speed,(70's) there is still quite a bit of boat touching the water at the transom. Allison's and Hydrostreams are running in the triple digit's, but not because they have a wider pad, they are 800 pound boats. Once you get enough speed to get the boat riding on the pad only, a wider pad will result in more wet surface and the idea is to have less wet surface. An example to compare to is the long time dispute over nose cones. Most outboard boats running less than 75mph will lose speed if you add a nose cone because you are adding more area to the lower unit which creates more drag. It takes close to 80mph to over come this. Back to the pad, wider is probably better to help hold the rest of the hull out of the water up to a certain point, but I think after you get enough speed to ride on just the pad, smaller will be faster. Just my opinion. If I am wrong, it won't be the first time! boatman:cheers
 
Bman, how much weight do you think the boat would have to lose? I think it would be pretty easy to lose a couple hundred ponds. What does a pad on an Allison look like? I see your point about not widening the pad at those speeds.

If I had the extra $$ right now, I would have CMate build me a hull with just balsa on the bottom (and not on the sides), a balsa or composite floor, stingers and transom. And then a real potato chip light lay up deck. Also, just two raec bucket seats instaed of a full interior. THAT would get you over a 100 w/ a 300X and blue printed hull!
 
Bman, how much weight do you think the boat would have to lose? I think it would be pretty easy to lose a couple hundred ponds. What does a pad on an Allison look like? I see your point about not widening the pad at those speeds.

Well, this is what a pad on a hydrostream looks like.

Jw9.jpg
 
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Well how about this for starter:My son and I are on a diet,so far he lost 90 pds and myself 40 pds..Since we boat a lot together,this means 130 pds less..
I wonder if this is going to us (next summer) an extra 1 or 2 mph ?? :bounce:
 
Every little bit helps! When I had my Pulsare, just moving a 175 passenger from the front seat to the back was worth 2-3 mph. Weight is the answer. I remember from my drag racing days, 100lbs was worth a tenth of a second. boatman
 
Boatman makes a great point...I was thinking the same thing, but I didn't want to spark a big debate. All I know is that a nose cone slowed down my old boat because I had more area in the water.

At 100+ there won't be much hull in the water anyway so why widen the pad.

Another thing that I was thinking.....I don't think that a Trophy Plus is the right prop for this type of run. With a sportmaster case it has been proven again and again that the motor/lower needs to be way up.

As I get the motor higher, my slip numbers go up with the T-Plus (not enough diameter???). I think a large diameter prop or chopper style (more of a surface prop) is the key. JMO.

Damn, I wish I pushed the light lay-up more! Oh well, live and learn.
 
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