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1988 Enticer restoration. Advice welcomed.

Two gallons of resin? It will be more like 7-8 by the time your'e done. Trust me on that.
 
wired said:
Two gallons of resin? It will be more like 7-8 by the time your'e done. Trust me on that.
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Had no idea how much to get so I got enought to get started until I had an idea. I see this thread is back open so I'll update with pics tommorow after work. I went to West Marine today and asked about Cabosil and they don't stock it. I picked up some West System 406 Colloidal Silica Adhesive Filler. It says it is for their epoxy resin but the salesman told be it works well mixed with polyester resin as well. If I need to order Cabosil and return this filler I can. I am not going to open packaging until I decide. My plan this weekend is to take some measurements maybe even use some cardboard or something to make some templates or mock pieces so I don't waste too much wood. I Hopefully I will get some wood cut as well. Still have more sanding to do but I need a little break from that. And thanks again for any input and to the guy who told be about West Marine price matching. They price match from anywhere but Ebay as long as the item is in stock at the place with the better price.
Scott
 
cmpulse170 said:
Glad to see you back at it!! Good luck!!:thumb: Since you bought supplies from Mertons http://www.mertons.com/Epoxy/polyester_Resins/quantities.html here's a go by for quantities:

Figuring Quantities

One Gallon of Polyester Resin will saturate approximately:

3 sq. yds. 1 1/2 oz. Mat3 sq. yds.24 oz. Roving1 2/3 yds.38 oz. Stitchmat3 yds.24 oz. Stitchmat6 yds. 10 oz. Cloth9 yds6 oz. Cloth
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wow! never used poly...i seem to be getting 1 1/2 to 2 times more than that coverage with epoxy....:poke:
 
Lawson if you decide to go over to epoxy it is never to late and these people offer great priceing for a five gallon system which includes the hardner which actually is a 7.5 gallon kit ,and might i recomend there # 635 which will give you the most bang for the buck , no stank , and a longer pot life which means more work time with different hardners to choose from . http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html Lawson, if you do the math in the long i think using Epoxy will be your best bet .;)
 
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OFFSHORE GINGER said:
Lawson if you decide to go over to epoxy it is never to late and these people offer great priceing for a five gallon system which includes the hardner which actually is a 7.2 gallon kit ,and might i recomend there # 635 which will give you the most bang for the buck , no stank , and a longer pot life which means more work time . http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html Lawson if you do the math in the long i think using Epoxy will be your best bet .;)
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Great post OG!!!:thumb: What type of cloth do you recommend to go with this system?
 
Lawson'sLanding said:
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Have you checked your core? I see a lot of black on the bottom that would be suspect of rot.

I used 1708 with both epoxy and poly on my restoration. I'm not an expert nor a scientist but I've learned that you can just about make anything work...as long as you don't half-ass it.

Rule of thumb: Polyester resin will not bond to epoxy.

Good luck!
 
bigredinohio said:
Have you checked your core? I see a lot of black on the bottom that would be suspect of rot.

I used 1708 with both epoxy and poly on my restoration. I'm not an expert nor a scientist but I've learned that you can just about make anything work...as long as you don't half-ass it.

Rule of thumb: Polyester resin will not bond to epoxy.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

I will have a better idea when I get it cleaned up. The black stuff is cleaning off and the core underneath looks good. Notice the wet spot in the bow in that last pic. I poured a little water on a spot and wiped clean with my hand. So far so good.
 
Cut the wood for the subfloor yesterday. the stringer is warped a little but will be straight when glassed in. In the pics the pieces are just resting in the hull. Nothing has been fastened to anything. You can see another spot where the hull was black and looked like rotten core. I sprayed some cleaner and wiped with a paper towel and it all came off. So far so good. I notched the stringer with a router where the side braces intersect and the braces are notched so they interlock. I want to build transom knees after the floor is down. What should I use to build those? 3/4" plywood or something thicker? Scott
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dscf0235v.jpg

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dscf0232ds.jpg

dscf0231n.jpg
 
Still need to put drain holes in the braces so water can drain. When the stringer is held down and straight, the gaps between the floor and braces are gone.
 
cmpulse170 said:
Looking good Scott!!! :thumb: 3/4" ply is good for the knees, make sure you round the edges so the mat will conform to the radius/edge. That goes for the stringer and braces as well.
Click to expand...
well said robbie , and lawson be sure to always use a fillet filling in ALL voids made from Cabosil and resin ( putty - peanut butter consistency) using a hobby stick making a cove for the fillet , and are you planning on doing your layup all at one time considering more then one thing can be pre made and tabbed in after the fact .
 
Looking at your pictures you might need to grind out the remaining bondo where the floor and hull meet. That way you ensure a good bond. Don't forget to do what OG mentioned as well (post#56), makes life easier when you start the layups.:thumb:
 
OFFSHORE GINGER said:
well said robbie , and lawson be sure to always use a fillet filling in ALL voids made from Cabosil and resin ( putty - peanut butter consistency) using a hobby stick making a cove for the fillet , and are you planning on doing your layup all at one time considering more then one thing can be pre made and tabbed in after the fact .
Click to expand...

Very good question. I am not sure yet. I was thinking about glueing or somehow securing all the pieces together how I want them, marking the hull where the wood sits, then removing the piece and doing most of the glass work outside of the boat. Putting the adhesive/fillet resin mix on the hull where I marked previously, then sitting the new piece on to the hull and squeezing out the adhesive mix from any voids. Fillet the corners next and then glass to the hull. Does that make any sense? As far as Cabosil goes. I don't have any. I picked up a product locally at West Marine. It is part of their epoxy system but they told me it works well mixed with polyester resin as well. Any experience with this stuff?
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dscf0237u.jpg

$25 for this container. I haven't opened it yet and saved the reciept so if it's not going to work I can return it. They don't stock Cabosil but if it is far superior or cheaper than this stuff I will order it. Hell, this might be the same stuff with their label on it, who knows. Anybody? Thanks, Scott
 
cmpulse170 said:
Looking at your pictures you might need to grind out the remaining bondo where the floor and hull meet. That way you ensure a good bond. Don't forget to do what OG mentioned as well (post#56), makes life easier when you start the layups.:thumb:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have a bunch more sanding to do and I'm going to scrub everything clean and rinse it out. I started sanding that away and then thought I might need it for some sort of reference when measuring for the new stringer and floor. It got to 80 degrees outside last week and i decided to do some wood work and give the Tyvek suit and fiberglass a rest for a couple days. I hate the cold but it is nice for sanding fiberglass because I can wear layers of clothes. Scott
 
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