1988 Enticer restoration. Advice welcomed.

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Scott , just grind off all the excess glass then somewhat feathering it back to finish up your layup in that area when tabbing your stringer to the hull .

 

[Rob B]

How's your resto going, any updates/pictures?

 

[Lawson'sLanding]

Hey guys. Sorry for the lack of updates. Work and side jobs have been keeping me pretty busy lately. Here is my recent progress. I reglassed the tip of my stringer with better but not perfect results. There is a much smaller void that I am going to fill with thickened resin before I set the stringer to the hull. I bought some syringes and filled the air pockets that I had with resin. I also coated the bottom of the stringer and exposed joints with a thinned resin even though they should be encapsulated with the resin/Cabosil mix once everything is joined to the hull. I ended up visiting a local upholstery shop that I have used years ago and talked to the owner about my boat. I used the wood I bought for the floor to start the interior. I figured that the floor would go faster than my interior guy so I need to get him started right away. It will be a few days before I get the wood/interior to him so if anyone has any suggestions interior wise, I'm all ears. Thanks, Scott

 

[Ramifications]

Looking good! Keep up the nice work!

 

[Rob B]

Scott did you round the edges on the stringers? That might be why the mat isn't laying down. Just a guess. Once you bury the stringer in cabosil it will and glass in place you'll be ok. Great job!!!

 

[Lawson'sLanding]

Scott did you round the edges on the stringers? That might be why the mat isn't laying down. Just a guess. Once you bury the stringer in cabosil it will and glass in place you'll be ok. Great job!!!

Yes, I rounded all edges with a router and a roundover bit. I even bought one of those rollers with the grooves that are made for fiberglass work. I just can't seem to get it to lay down on that small point. Another question. Is this the same glass I want to use to build my seat boxes or should I use the finer fiberglass?

 

[Rob B]

Yes, I rounded all edges with a router and a roundover bit. I even bought one of those rollers with the grooves that are made for fiberglass work. I just can't seem to get it to lay down on that small point. Another question. Is this the same glass I want to use to build my seat boxes or should I use the finer fiberglass?

Are you using 1708 mat to wrap the stringers? The 1.5oz csm would be easier to use for wrapping the stringers and seat boxes. Do what OG said grind the end off set the stringer in cabosil and glass in place.

 

[Lawson'sLanding]

And the plot thickens... Sorry for the long absence, I have been absent from the forums, but have not stopped working on the boat. I stopped on the hull for a while to focus on cutting wood and arranging for my new interior. While working on cutting wood and sealing it for the interior, I noticed water seaping out of the transom. Today I dropped off my old interior and new wood/hardare at the upholstery shop. After lots of thought, I decided to do the transom now as well even though it appears solid. This afternoon I de-rigged my boat and the motor is hanging from a cable in my garage. I have lots of quetions. The wood is firm but wet, I know it needs replaced. I am going to drill out the rivets and seprerate and slide the top half forward. The seem in the pic has wood below and something esle above it. Can anyone explain to me what is going on here? Only the bottom holes seem to be going through the plywood transom. I have been reading alot about transom replacemant and am leaning toward a Sea cast transom but am still at the learning stages. On Screamandfly there are some negative opinions, but hardly any from anyone with personal experience.

 

[Rob B]

Scott are you talking about where the bolts go thru the lip on the splashwell? I don't know much about seacast other than reading about it. I would replace the transom with plywood encapsulated in mat and resin. The layup for standard transoms is CSM,3/4 ply,CSM,3/4 ply, 1708,1708 and two extra layers of 1708 around the perimeter (8 inch tabbing) Here's picture of another typical layup schedule.

 

[Ramifications]

The seem in the pic has wood below and something esle above it. Can anyone explain to me what is going on here? Only the bottom holes seem to be going through the plywood transom.

For the rivets... take a nail punch and knock the rivet pin in so you can drill only on the aluminum body of the rivet to drill the head off. A 3/16" bit should be perfect. Once the head is off, you can knock the remainder of the rivet through. When the drill bit if full of rivet heads, use a pair of pliers and put the drill in reverse and pull the rivet heads off the bit.

Your next battle will be the sealant between the top deck and hull. I used a pry bar and popped it loose. To slide the deck forward, I used a 2x6 under the bow (spanning a couple feet beyond the hull on either side, so the deck will sit on it) a 2x6 under the transom (same as the bow) and I lifted from within the boat and slid it forward on the 2x's. It worked well... Oh, don't forget to remove the drain tube for the splash well prior to removing the top deck. Also, badbk and sam i am have good pics of breaking the seal on the transom.

For what you mentioned above, I see no pic, but assume you are talking about the filler type product where the splash well is? once again, badbk and sam i am are going with a lipless splash well to avoid the filler.

 

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

DELETE , and robbie i apologize to you and everyone because i was out of line on this post...........Thank you guys and i hope you understand , take care .........................

 

[Ramifications]

Robbie ,just curious where do you get these actual figures from when doing a standard layup and is that from many years of experience or just what you pull up on the net ? Robbie , i am not trying to be rude but i would not recomend that lay up to anyone on here considering .it can be done much easier (pre - made )and stronger then mentioned above ,and this info is comeing from a person who spells shoul wrong and uses carpenters glue.

What is your method? Not being a smart ass, I would like to know for future reference. I will even make an attempt to put together a diagram like above for your method.

 

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by OFFSHORE GINGER
Robbie ,just curious where do you get these actual figures from when doing a standard layup and is that from many years of experience or just what you pull up on the net ? Robbie , i am not trying to be rude but i would not recomend that lay up to anyone on here considering .it can be done much easier (pre - made )and stronger then mentioned above ,and this info is comeing from a person who spells shoul wrong and uses carpenters glue.


No offense taken. The Layup schedule came from Iboats in their how to section. While I realize there are alot of ways to build a transom this was just a typical way. From what I gather most folks over there go by the above method. If there's another way of building transoms please share so that others can learn. This was only an example. This is what I did on my transom layup schedule which was also posted in the response thread: The layup for standard transoms is CSM,3/4 ply,CSM,3/4 ply, 1708,1708 and two extra layers of 1708 around the perimeter (8 inch tabbing)

 

[Lawson'sLanding]

Sorry, don't know why pics didn't attach last night.

 

[Lawson'sLanding]

For the rivets... take a nail punch and knock the rivet pin in so you can drill only on the aluminum body of the rivet to drill the head off. A 3/16" bit should be perfect. Once the head is off, you can knock the remainder of the rivet through. When the drill bit if full of rivet heads, use a pair of pliers and put the drill in reverse and pull the rivet heads off the bit.

Your next battle will be the sealant between the top deck and hull. I used a pry bar and popped it loose. To slide the deck forward, I used a 2x6 under the bow (spanning a couple feet beyond the hull on either side, so the deck will sit on it) a 2x6 under the transom (same as the bow) and I lifted from within the boat and slid it forward on the 2x's. It worked well... Oh, don't forget to remove the drain tube for the splash well prior to removing the top deck. Also, badbk and sam i am have good pics of breaking the seal on the the transom.

For what you mentioned above, I see no pic, but assume you are talking about the filler type product where the splash well is? once again, badbk and sam i am are going with a lipless splash well to avoid the filler.

Thanks for the tip. As far as the lipless splashwell, I want to try and keep as much or all of the original gelcoat. I could drill the holes for the jackplate lower on the transom so all of the holes are going through the transom and not the filler. I could then raise the motor on the jackplate to make up for the loss of height. If you look on the pics I just poste you can see the top holes are right at the seem. I guess I will know more once I get it seperated.

 

[Ramifications]

Thanks for the tip. As far as the lipless splashwell, I want to try and keep as much or all of the original gelcoat. I could drill the holes for the jackplate lower on the transom so all of the holes are going through the transom and not the filler. I could then raise the motor on the jackplate to make up for the loss of height. If you look on the pics I just poste you can see the top holes are right at the seem. I guess I will know more once I get it seperated.

I wouldn't plan to lower the engine. If you went below the splash well, you would be at least 4-6" lower. That would change many things with how the boat performs. just my 2 cents

 

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Scott , i just sent you an E-Mail and Robbie ,yesterday was just one of those days if you know what i mean .

 

[Lawson'sLanding]

Okay I had to come in for a break. Todays was becoming very productive until the last hour. Everything has been going so well last night and today. Motor came off easily. The rubrail is now off the boat as well as all the rivets. The cap is begining to seperate and I have the front nose up a few inches and supported by some wood. The only part I can't seem to seperate is the splashwell area. Turns out the upper motor bolts are in wood so the transom must be taller in that area. They are at the parting seam between the hull and cap but the wood goes into the cap at that spot. Am I going to have to cut some glass out of the transom or splashwell to get this cap off? When I knocked out the drain tubes from the splashwell and the lower transom drain, the splashwell wood was damp but the lower drain started dripping water and had an awful odor to it. Can't believe I almost glassed the floor and left the transom in there.

 

[Lawson'sLanding]

I forgot to mention, I used an air hammer to chip away all of the resin/adhesive under the splashwell where it was glued to the hull.

 

[Lawson'sLanding]

Finally! I guess I just needed to take a little break from it. I got the top off and slid forward without having to cut any fiberglass. After chipping away the Bondo or whatever that stuff is I now have a bidrseye view of the transom. It is encapsulated pretty good. Next I'm going to cut the glass off the top of the transom and see what the wood looks like. I will probably cut the glass that covers the transom on the inside of the boat. I would like to get the transom out in one piece so I have a template. We will see.