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73 MX-16 resto/mod, 1 broke high school teacher

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i can't believe it's been over a month since I updated. I took on a boat interior to raise funds. It took all my spare time for a couple of weeks but I was able to buy a new aluminum rub rail and ordered a new windshield. I also have finished putting the power head back together. I spent hours cleaning gasket surfaces. I'm going to paint everything white before I put fuel lines and electrics back on it.

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Yesterday I drilled all the new holes through the transom. I used a small brush and coated all the holes with epoxy. I also took some time to polish up the old stainless hardware. I wanted to put a brass drain in it so I made a flanging tool by taking the nylon out of a nylock nut and reversing it to make the flange. Once I got the flange started I used the washer to flatten it to the inside of the hull. Of coarse I coated everything with 5200. In the picture of the stainless hardware you can see a gasket that I made fore the tie down eye out of 1/8 inch closed foam. My thinking is that this will help seal the hardware and protect the paint. I also epoxied all the snap studs (70) to the floor for the carpet. I'm going to mount the setback bracket tomorrow and maybe start the rub rail. i'm a bit nervous about bending the aluminum. This stuff is expensive.

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x3 Just buzzed through the whole thread. I'm like....Dude.. You have got some real skill there and a good eye. Impressive restoration you are doing on that boat. Lord bless You ! BIG:thumb:
 
Yes redstrats thread is one of my favotite restos. Hes constantly thinking outside the box and it really shows. Your killin it! Sweet Mx.:thumb:
 
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Thanks to all for your words of encouragement. I didn't get anything done on the boat today. The sun was shining and garden had to get planted. Chores never seem to end. But, I can take a break from my teaching gig in one month. :banana: Have a great week everyone.
 
I wamm bammed my resto

I think you mean "hit it out of the park". You've executed my favorite paint scheme. I spotted an older V8 jet boat at the side of the road on my way to work last week. It sat there for 2 days in the pouring rain. Day 3 the sun was out so I thought I would stop and take a look. Gone.... :brickwall:
 
I came home from work today and found this interior in front of my shop. The good news is... more money to finish my boat. The bad news is... no time to work on my boat. And... why are they always Bayliners? :shakehead:

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I could use a little input here. I'm setting up my swivel mount and 5'' manual jack plate. Where I have it now the cavitation plate will be 2" above the transom pad and the prop shaft will be 6" below. I'm using an older Chrysler/Force with tilt and trim and a low water pickup. From here I can drop the motor 1" or raise it 3 1/2". I'm reading a lot of different opinions. What do you guys think of this as a starting point? Any experienced input will be appreciated here. I'm green as the grass on this subject. Thanks, Mark
 
I could use a little input here. I'm setting up my swivel mount and 5'' manual jack plate. Where I have it now the cavitation plate will be 2" above the transom pad and the prop shaft will be 6" below. I'm using an older Chrysler/Force with tilt and trim and a low water pickup. From here I can drop the motor 1" or raise it 3 1/2". I'm reading a lot of different opinions. What do you guys think of this as a starting point? Any experienced input will be appreciated here. I'm green as the grass on this subject. Thanks, Mark

I would start center line of prop at 3" below pad then work up or down depending on water pressure.
 
Baby steps this week. I got the jack plate and swivel bracket to where I think will be a good starting point. If you look closely you'll see an 1/8" layer of closed cell foam between the plate and the transom. I also used it to make gaskets for all the washers on the plate. My thinking is that they will reduce marring and any galvanic reaction mixing metals. We'll see...

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I also started to set up my swivel bracket for dual cable steering. I have a ride-guide set up and I'm hoping to break (or approach) 50mph. I have two extra steering tubes so I decided to make my own bracket.

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I have three lower units but this one has the 1 to 1.75 ratio that is optimal for this motor. The seals are all good but now I have to weld on a new skeg without destroying them. Wish me luck :shakehead:

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I'm waiting on fabric for the Bayliner interior so I had a little time to push on. I got my swivel bracket and lower unit back from the welder (I'm not set up for welding aluminum). I spent several hours making modifications to the steering bracket and cowl mount to enable the motor to reach full tilt. This motor has a travel bracket that attaches when the motor is completely in the tilt position. The only way I could make this work is to turn the motor to the left about 30 degrees. Anybody see any problems that I can't foresee? I'm thinking I will have to make my own angled transom saver. I ordered paint this morning for the floor and motor; matching white Awlgrip.

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I'm almost done with the Bayliner interior. I'll be back on the MX-16 next week. I did manage to finally finish the baseball stitched steering wheel cover that I started back in April. I think it took me 8 attempts but I finally got it figured out. Here are some pics. :cheers:

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