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73 MX-16 resto/mod, 1 broke high school teacher

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The reason that you run the cables down each side is so one cable is in tension and one cable is in compression. It is much safer that way! Also you can adjust out any unwanted steering play. I have been running my steering cables that way since the mid 1970s.
On the West Coast, virtually every race and high performance boat using steering cables are rigged with the cables entering from opposite sides.
The Sea Star Pro hydraulic steering is really nice, but not needed on mid power motors. It is also way to expensive!..........Skip
 
SUCCESS! Turned the key and she fired right up yesterday. It's time to put the seats in and throw it in the river. I took a video but I don't have the right cable to get it into my computer. :shakehead: I spent a lot of time this week on electric, rigging, lync/sync and timing. I think I finally have everything squared away. :thumb:

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Off the trailer and gettin wet! Here's how it went. 20 minutes on the trailer at idle. Pulled it out to check temp (no gauge yet), pull the plugs and re-torque the head. Then it came off the trailer and we spent 2 hours going from idle to 1500 rpms. Once again checked plugs and re-torqued. Between the two times I got about a 1/4 turn on each bolt. Back in the water and ran it between 1500 and 3000 rpms For another 1 and 1/2 hours. She will cruise on plane at around 2400. I gave it a coupe of short bursts of throttle just because I had to. Felt sooo gooood:bigthumb: So far the mechanics seem rock solid. I'm really pleased as this is my first 2 stroke rebuild and my first attempt at porting (and my first boat for that matter). My daughter has been a great mate on these first voyages. She grabbed the handle pretty quickly when I hit the throttle. I know I know.... video coming soon.

http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=72&pictureid=1113

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I took her out Saturday and she had her first hiccup. Cruised Fine but when I threw the throttle down she quickly fouled a plug. I backed off and she cleared up after a couple of minutes. I tried it again with the same result. I spent the morning yesterday re-timing and setting carbs. I'm still running double oil so that's probably the culprit. I did decide to test the compression and found 152 lb on all cylinders. That made me happy :bigthumb:
I'm working on installing the rest of the interior so I thought I'ld show how I did the snap in carpet. First off, I try not to use rattle can glue. I put upholstery glue in a cheep HF gun, open up the fluid and push it at 50lb of pressure. It's very easy to put it where you want it. After your done just wipe the tip with some lacquer thinner. I've kept glue in the gun for over a year with no trouble. If it gets thick just mix in a bit of thinner. Much cheeper, easier and better than rattle cans.

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After making paper patterns I glued carpet to the gunwales and bulkhead. I bound the exposed edge where the life jackets sit. You can see that I notched around my epoxied snap studs.

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I made my snap in carpets months ago when I dry fit the seats and panels. All I had to do was bind them, mark and attach the snaps. It's hard to see but the rear carpet goes under the side panels and snaps in the gunwale. This is the first attempt at this and what I now realize is that I didn't need half the studs that I epoxied to the floor.

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