• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

2800SX Outboard Restoration Begins!!!

I think the same as Dave unless you do the bracket red also. Maybe some yellow on there too. To tie in the lighting bolts
 
Definitely black. Doing it this way the centerline of the engines will not line up with centerlines of brackets? Why did you decide not to remove brackets off of transom and move them out. It may look like an afterthought when completed. If the brackets have 5200 on them I understand why not. I tore the first layer of glass off years ago removing the Gils from my Sonic. Nice project BTW. You have come a long since day 1.
 
Definitely black. Doing it this way the centerline of the engines will not line up with centerlines of brackets? Why did you decide not to remove brackets off of transom and move them out. It may look like an afterthought when completed. If the brackets have 5200 on them I understand why not. I tore the first layer of glass off years ago removing the Gils from my Sonic. Nice project BTW. You have come a long since day 1.

Sonicss31, I'm not fond of having to drill additional holes in my transom. That's why I decided to build a plate to mount to the brackets rather than spread the brackets themselves. My boat was originally a tripple engine boat to begin with!! With the plate I have the option of adjusting up/down/sideways or I can remove the plate and go back to 18" centers. When the plate is finished all excess material will be trimmed away and you'll barely notice the plate at all. I have a friend running a 30' Superboat/twin 225 Promaxes (FreezeFrame boat) and he did the same thing I'm doing. It worked like a charm!
 
Jup, what is the reason you are spreading your engines apart. I thought you said it is typically faster on a 18 in center. Just wondering why the change now.
 
Jup, what is the reason you are spreading your engines apart. I thought you said it is typically faster on a 18 in center. Just wondering why the change now.

demag67, the reason for running 18" centers is to get the highest propshaft height with the lowest center of gravity. Being that the boat is not being raced, I'm not so overly concerned with the center of gravity. I can retain and increase my top end speed by raising & spreading the motors with the bracket. This will also allow me to run 3.0L motors in the future (you never know when I may stumble into a pair of 225/250EFI's or 300X's!) Also, spreading the motors increases dockside maneuverability when putting one motor in forward and the other in reverse...I will also be able to use stock Offshore cowls & pans which are better at keeping water out of the motors compared to the 260 style, lightweight, drop on cowls.
 
The plate idea works and isn't noticable. My 2800 had the same plate on it when I bought it. 22.5 centers. I've still got it. And it's not really noticeable at all .

That being said, my boat handled like crap and was slower when it was at 22.5.

Compared to the way it is now at least. And mine will spin a 360 nearly in its own tracks at the dock.

The previous owner put the plate on simply to clear the alien cowls.

My setup now counter 4 hole cles..1.87 gear....new style straight skeg..18 inch centers 2 inches above the bottom 29 inches back. 26 choppers.

Best setup I've had ever...flies flat in the rough even at 70...planes in seconds even with 100 gal fuel 5 people and two full coolers and gear...corners on rails. And I literally need zero positive trim to achieve maximum performance.

I've had a lot of diff combos on this boat and this is by far the best
 
The plate idea works and isn't noticable. My 2800 had the same plate on it when I bought it. 22.5 centers. I've still got it. And it's not really noticeable at all .

That being said, my boat handled like crap and was slower when it was at 22.5.

Compared to the way it is now at least. And mine will spin a 360 nearly in its own tracks at the dock.

The previous owner put the plate on simply to clear the alien cowls.

My setup now counter 4 hole cles..1.87 gear....new style straight skeg..18 inch centers 2 inches above the bottom 29 inches back. 26 choppers.

Best setup I've had ever...flies flat in the rough even at 70...planes in seconds even with 100 gal fuel 5 people and two full coolers and gear...corners on rails. And I literally need zero positive trim to achieve maximum performance.

I've had a lot of diff combos on this boat and this is by far the best

Hey Max!! Long time no hear from! I picked up a nice pair of counter rotating 2.5's with fresh factory cowls/pans. I thought about splitting the 2.5 powerheads and using my existing clamps/mids/cowls, etc. but I got a great offer on the old motors so I sold them complete. That being said, I needed to spread the motors without spreading the Gil brackets and re-drilling the transom which is why I chose to add the bracket. At 18" centers my boat would also spin on a dime on a calm day but...if the wind were blowing and catches the bow it can be a handful! I'm also going to continue running 25" mids and with the bracket I'll have the adjustability to run my propshafts as much as 3" above the bottom if needed or switch to 3.0L Mercs!!
 
Very cool Steve.

What does it mean to have the gear cases gone through? Do they disassemble them and inspect for wear and tear? Is it costly? Maybe its something I should have done over the winter.
 
Very cool Steve.

What does it mean to have the gear cases gone through? Do they disassemble them and inspect for wear and tear? Is it costly? Maybe its something I should have done over the winter.

Yes, the internals are taking out, inspected, new seals replaced and/or bearings replaced if needed, reassembled, pressure tested, filled with fresh gear lube and new waterpumps installed.
 
Transom plate is finally finished and installed on my Gill brackets. New aluminum diamond plate and red anodized rigging tube fittings have been installed. I dropped off my two CLE empty gearcases off at the powder coater. Getting close to hanging my 2.5L Mercs!
 

Attachments

  • 20150727_132434.jpg
    20150727_132434.jpg
    62 KB · Views: 72
  • 20150727_132454.jpg
    20150727_132454.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 70
  • 20150727_132418.jpg
    20150727_132418.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 69
Back
Top