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Tri-mate 2 over haul.

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I can see them........still got some work to do...eh?
 
Who ever put the bug in my brain about installing a pad should be commited.
Well after about $100 worth of wood and trial and error. I hate angles. I came up with a solution. Made the frame, turned it over and layed in 3 layers of glass. This thing is strong and true.
Ground down the matting surface on the hull with 60 grit. The pad has 3 point of contact both sides and center. Bonded down, once that cures I will glass it to the hull and shape untill its flat and true. The pad is 10" wide and 3/4 higher than the top of the "V".
I still have to make the front transisition and blend it into the pad.
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yo 175 !!! maybe when ya get done with this project , the boys from buycrus would let ya do a plug for a cat or somthing easier. can't beat on the job learning
 
Got a major amount of OJT on this project. But its getting closer.
Working at mate would be cool, I just hate the itch.
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I hear you man, I decided to re-paint my outboard this year and have spent the last month stripping and sanding and I am to the point where I am saying "what was I thinking" but we all know its worth it in the end. I got alot of repsect for you man, you are doing what most don't have the patience or determination to do. If the results are good I'm sure you will influence some of us to follow. Hang in there!
 
Thanks for the kind words.
The trouble I will have is going slow enough. There is starting to be light at the end of the tunnel. It will take all the willpower I have to not hurry the project. I don't want to miss anything.
 
Gus,

I started moving your photos over on to our server. I wasn't aware they were on Scream's servers! Anyway, I'll move a few each day until they are all over here.
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Here are a few more pics...
Here is a front shot. Took a major amount of time to get the transistion to do what I wanted. Got to love 36 grit paper.

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There is 2 layers of glass on the large flat section of the pad. Just go the first layer on the front. Still have to get another layer on the front with a bit more shaping. Then one more layer over the whole mess.


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Oh the fun I am having. JW took a look at some of the first pic's of the bottom with the pad installed. Like a true speed freak he says " you need to run the middle strakes all the way to the transom. All the fast boats have them" Great I say, and there they are. Still shaping and then there will be 3 layers of glass and more shaping. WILL THIS PROJECT EVER FLOAT. Stay tuned.

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This boat is eather going to have a major speed increase and run and drive well or. It will look great and be a 40mph boat. Then I will have to lift the back and hack that thing off with the chainsaw.
I wonder if anyone will notice when the boat rises up and get on the pad?
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I AM NOT A DESIGNER OF BOAT BOTTOMS BUT HAVE BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME. IT APPEARS FROM THE PHOTOS THAT YOUR PAD BOTTOM IS ON A DIFFERENT PLANE THAN YOUR KEEL TOWARDS THE BOW. THE ANGLE OF ATTACK THAT APPEARS IN YOU PHOTO IS GOING TO ACT LIKE A TRIM TAB IN THE DOWN POSITION THEREBY FORCING THE NOSE OF YOUR BOAT DOWN. SHOOT A PROFILE SHOT OF THE BOTTOM AND POST IT. BEFORE EXPENDING ALOT MORE TIME AND EFFORT, CHECK OUT SOME OF THE OTHER PAD BOTTOM BOATS. VELOCITY BUILD ONE OF THE FASTEST PAD BOTTOM V'S OUT THERE. YOU MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK THE BOTTOM OF A PULSARE.
 
Jupiter, I hear what you are saying. Just looked at the picture upsidedown to see what it looked like. Upside down it looks like it would form a ramp to help the boat get on to the pad.
Not sure how this will work. I see what you are saying, and it may pull the bow down at slower speeds but I think at about 60mph it will lift.
 
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