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Tri-mate 2 over haul.

AS THE BOAT MOVES ACROSS THE WATER, THE WATER ACTS AS A VACUUM SUCKING THE BOAT DOWN. AGAIN, I AM NOT A DESIGNER OR HYDRODYNAMIC ENGINEER BUT THE COMBINATION AND PHYSICS OF THE WATER ATTEMPTING TO SUCK THE HULL DOWN, THE ANGLE OF YOUR ADDED PAD ACTING LIKE A TRIM TAB WILL FORCE THE BOW DOWN GIVING YOU TREMENDOUS BOW STEERING. IF YO HAVE ENOUGH H.P. AND TRIM LEVERAGE TO GET YOU OFF THE BOW RUNNING SURFACE AND ON TO THE PAD??? WHO KNOWS?? YOU MAY HAVE TO PATENT THAT ONE!
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I see what you are saying. The main body of the pad.(the flat part) is level (square) with the bottom of the boat. The only part that has any downward turn that will affect the running of the boat will be the front transistion from the pad back to the hull. I am running about 220hp on this 16 foot boat. I hope there is enough there to get it on the pad. I figure that at around 60 it should clime on the pad.
 
HELLO TO ALL!
FRIEND, JUPITER IS RIGHT..ME TO MAY NOT BE A DESIGNER BUT HAVE A LOT OF EXPERIENCE. RIGHT NOW IM REDOING AN 81 ENCHANTER ABOUT 60%. ONE THING I CAN TELL YOU WITH ALL THE YEARS EXPERIENCE I HAVE. THE FACTORIES PUT A LOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO THESE BOATS. CHANGING THE FACTORY SPECTS IS ONE OF THE WORST THINGS YOU CAN DO..I THINK THAT PERHAPS IF YOU HAD TAKEN THE FRONT OF THE PAD FUTHUR TO THE BOW WITH A MORE V SHAPE AS IT SLARES TOWARD THE STURN YOU MAY HAVE A BETTER CHANCE. YOU HAVE A NICE BOAT, KEEP IT REAL..DONT WASTE $$$ ON BUTCHERING UP THE BABY...AS FOR THE TRANSOM..LOTS OF WOOD IS GOOD FOR NOTHING..2" OF WOOD WITH TWO LAYERS OF DOUBLE MAT WELL SOAKED WITH EPOXY WILL LAST LONGER THAT 10" OF PLY..tAKE GOOD CARE OF THAT BABY.ITS A NICE BOAT..ANYTHING I CAN HELP WITH FEEL FREE TO EMAIL..
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Thanks for the input guys. The transom is way overbuilt, and there is 2 layers of matt between the 3 parts. I did not want to do it over again any time soon.
As for the pad. I am going to get it a go. I have looked at every pad that I could get a picture of. I have a ton of pictures of my boat running. Max speed and trimed right. Looking at where the hull rides in the water kind of set the demensions of the pad. IF the boat run's anything like it did before the front of the pad will not even be in the water at WOT. It may work, IT may not. As far as changing the factory specs. Well if the 1975 factory specs where so great then why do the new models comming out of checkmate not have the same hull?
I have always had trouble with factory spec's.
Keep the input comming. We will not know if it works untill its back together and tested.
 
THE TYPR OF PAD BOTTOM THAT LILJOJO MENTIONED IS CALLED A VARIABLE DEGREE DEADRISE PAD, IT STARTS OUT AS A V-BOTTOM IN THE BOW AND TRANSITIONS INTO A PAD BOTTOM TOWARDS THE TRANSOM. WHEN YOU DESIGN A RAISED VARIABLE DEGREE DEADRISE PAD BOTTOM (SUCH AS VELOCITY) THE BOATS BECOME SLIPPERY FAST AND FUN TO DRIVE. NOT FOR THE FAINT AT HEARTED AT SPEED. THEY DO POUND YOU A BIT IN THE ROUGH STUFF, IF YOU HAVE SLOW REACTION TIMING IN YOUR THROTTLE HAND WHEN THE BOAT LEAVES THE WATER AND REENTER YOU CAN TAKE A BEATING. GOT TO BE ON THE GAS AT THE SAME RPM LANDING THE BOAT AS WHEN THE BOAT LAUNCHED. THIS WILL SMOOTH OUT THE PAD RIDE AND KEEP YOU GRINNING EAR TO EAR!!!
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Yep its cool. On the last page of the 1989 bruchure. The Cobra Srint. It was based on the Predictor/Enticer bottom. Guess who did the taping and painting. Me.
 
coop, I never noticed the cobra sprint, that is a cool boat, makes me want to relook at the brochures. Gus... get that thing done! It is shaping up nicely... I may have done somethings different myself but I want to see it run, I don't think you will be disappointed.

- Duane
 
Thanks Chris,
The 2 smaller seats are for the bow. I will remove the brackets and make mounts fo them. I also have the matching white vinal for the side pads.
 
Ok guys and gals. It time to let the cat out of the mate bag.
The color of the boat will be viper yellow. The trim line around the hull just under the rub rail will be black.
I have pop up cleats, hardware, cup holders and dash switch plate are black. The air inlet vents on the merc cover will be powder coated yellow. I have Yellow and red mercury racing decals that are for the cowel. The back of the cover will read 150 in yellow.
 
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